I have 3B curls.
And it’s taken me many years to find products that actually suit my hair, don’t cause any long-term damage, and finally have a routine that gives me good volume along with definition.
Yes, that balance is tricky.
But it’s possible! And no, you don’t need expensive products either.
So, this post is heavy, but I want to talk about:
- What is 3B hair? What’s special about it?
- What are the common hair concerns that you need to look out for?
- How to care for 3B curls?
- Products I use in my routine
- How to style 3B curls to get maximum definition and volume?
This post might be heavy, so bookmark it to save it or just pin this so that you never lose this guide!
Okie dokie, let’s begin.
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What is 3B hair?
3B hair refers to a specific curl pattern within the type 3 (curly) category. But not to get too technical, the curls are spiral and not entirely corkscrew.
The curls are very springy and are about the width of a Sharpie marker.
Here’s a chart to help you understand what kind of curls you might have:
It is entirely possible to have 2 types of curls. I have 3B-3C curls according to my hairstylist so I do have some very tight curls and some looser curls.
This is totally normal.
So, if your hair looks like this:
You probably have 3B curls.
What are the challenges/concerns when dealing with 3B curls?
Based on my own experience, here are the main concerns you need to keep in mind:
- Shrinkage: Because 3B curls are very coily and spiraly, it tends to shrink – this means you need to grow your curls really long to be able to show length.
- Frizzy/Dry hair: I have experienced my curls becoming frizzy with change in climate (this sucks) and it’s crucial to use a water softener if you live in a city with hard water. Your hair will also become frizzy because the sebum our scalps produce finds it difficult to travel down the hair shaft.
- Tangles/knots and dreadlocks: If you work out, your sweat can mingle with your curly hair products and form dreads. So, please make sure you detangle frequently. I will discuss how to do this in the next step.
- Curl definition: If you use very heavy products, your curls can look limp. It also happens with humidity. It is very important to use a gel or mousse after a curl cream to avoid this and maintain definition.
- Easy breakage: Curly hair breaks easily (and now that I am in my 30s, it’s gotten more severe), so please be gentle and don’t use brushes or harsh cotton towels.
- Dry ends: This happens to everyone no matter what kind of hair type you have. I’ve covered this problem in detail in this post.
Alright, that’s pretty much it.
If you’re already experiencing a lot of these problems – don’t fret, I got you.
Here’s how you care for 3B curls.
Everything I do to Care for 3B curls
1. Use a hair mask
You will suffer from dry/frizzy and unmanageable hair – it’s a given. This is why it’s so crucial to use a hair mask at least once a week or 2 times a month.
Also, you don’t need to do this overnight or keep it in your hair for 2 hours.
Just leave it in for 10-15 min after shampooing.
I’ve tried many hair masks, but this is the only one I use because it actually works. I fell for it after reading the reviews and although it takes a long time to ship to my country – I don’t care, it’s worked for me beautifully!
2. Never skip a leave-in conditioner
Our hair needs moisture, a lot of it.
A leave-in conditioner basically allows the hair to absorb the curly hair products better by moisturizing the hair better
I’ve found that using a leave-in conditioner helps improve my curl definition – and if you want, you can also skip hair gel.
3. Do not use heavy products
It’s tempting to choose curl butter, but you genuinely don’t need it.
I only suggest using curl butter if you have type 4 curls. You can manage with curl activators or curl creams.
Heavy products will weigh down your hair and cause your curls to look limp and stringy – I’ve tried it and I’m telling you this from experience.
4. Do not ever apply your curl products to your scalp
At any cost, when you’re using curl creams or curl activators or gel, start 2 inches away from the scalp.
If it sticks to your scalp, you can weigh down your roots (it will look greasy) and your scalp will feel itchy.
Apart from your shampoo and your regular hair oil, avoid applying products to your scalp.
5. Never use heat
EVER.
Even if you must use heat, use a strong heat protector like this.
Using heat on curly hair will cause more heat damage, dryness and breakage – remember what I said earlier that curly hair is already sensitive to dryness and breakage?
So straightening your hair or hair drying will exacerbate this problem.
5. Protect your curls when you sleep
Use a satin cap when sleeping and make sure you tie your curls up in a loose pineapple hairstyle like this:
The satin cap will ensure that your curls don’t rub against each other and this will reduce breakage – it will also ensure that you have good curl definition for days on end.
6. Be very gentle with your curls
This means you should only detangle your hair when it’s wet.
What I do is (after shampooing), I use a conditioner and gently run my fingers through my curls and this detangles the curls.
Do not pull or be rough, be patient.
You can also use a wide-tooth comb starting from the ends and working upwards.
7. Avoid rough drying
Pat Dry or Scrunch: Pat your hair dry gently or scrunch it upwards with the microfiber towel to maintain curl definition and avoid disrupting the curl pattern.
Microfiber Towel or T-Shirt: Instead of using a regular towel, which can create friction and frizz, use a microfiber towel or a soft cotton T-shirt to gently squeeze out excess water. Avoid rubbing or twisting your hair.
Products I use for my 3B curls and Recommend:
1. Hair Mask
Again, I’ve actually used many hair masks, but this is the only one I love because it makes my curls soft and shiny and I only leave it in for 10 min before rinsing it out. I fell for it after reading the reviews and it’s worth the hype.
2. Curly hair shampoo
Your shampoo doesn’t matter that much, but it should not be too harsh.
Now, I recommend trying 2-3 and seeing which one you prefer. I don’t like too mild a shampoo because I want it to remove all the curly hair products I use. It should have that perfect balance.
So, honestly, this is the one I currently use and love:
I understand it’s expensive but I haven’t found one that’s as good as this one. But if you’re looking for the next-best alternatives, here they are:
I also like:
- Aunt Jackie’s Oh So Clean Moisturizing and Softening Shampoo
- Mielle Moisturizing and Detangling Shampoo
- Shea Moisture Curly Hair shampoo
3. Curly hair conditioner
You can use both – a curly hair conditioner and then follow with a leave-in conditioner. I sometimes skip the conditioner if I’ve just used the hair mask and I don’t need to detangle or my hair is already very moisturized.
Remember, it’s all about balance.
So, the one I use is:
I don’t mind the smell at all, and I like vanilla.
A few alternatives are:
- Garnier Fructis has nailed its curly hair conditioner with this particular launch.
- Ouidad Curl Quencher Conditioner
4. Leave-in Conditioner
I never, ever skip leave-in conditioner.
I always shampoo and then go to a leave-in, no matter how tired I am.
Even if I’ve just finished a workout, I will wash my hair and then use a leave-in. If I’m staying at home, I will skip the curl cream/activator and gel, but I will finish with the leave-in.
Here are the only leave-ins I recommend:
- Mielle Pomegranate and Honey Leave-In
- Miss Jessie’s Leave-in Condish
- Camille Rose Moisture Milk Leave-In
- As I Am Leave-In
I’ve used all 4 and alternate between them, I love them all.
5. Curly hair cream
Okay, this is my favorite part. I am slightly biased toward curly hair creams that smell good and have that nice milky feel to them – my hair can’t get enough of it either.
Here are my favorites starting with:
- Cantu Curl Activator (I’ve been using this for over 6 years)
- MoroccanOil Curl Defining Cream (if you’re looking for a high-end product)
- Miss Jessie’s Pillow Soft Curls (another favorite of mine)
6. Gel
I am a big fan of DevaCurl Ultra Defining Gel, and I used it for a long time. But I have been wanting to try out other alternatives and here are 2 more I love:
Use a gel only if you need your curls to last for a while.
Now, I’ll talk about how I style my 3B curls
Here is my 3B Curl Routine
1. Start with Clean, Hydrated Hair
- First shampoo your hair, because you want to work with clean hair.
- Apply a conditioner to detangle and moisturize your curls. Finger-detangle or use a wide-tooth comb while the conditioner is still in your hair.
- Deep Condition (Optional): Once a week, apply a deep conditioning mask.
2. Apply a Leave-In Conditioner
- After rinsing out your conditioner, apply a leave-in conditioner while your hair is still wet. This will add extra moisture and make it easier to define your curls.
- Distribute the product evenly by using the “praying hands” method (gliding your hands over your curls) or gently scrunching.
3. Use a Curl Cream or Activator followed by a gel
- Curl Cream for Definition: Apply a curl cream to enhance your curl pattern. It helps clump the curls together and keeps them hydrated and defined throughout the day.
- Gel for Hold: If you want more hold and frizz control, apply a gel over your curl cream. Don’t go overboard because the gel does dry out curls. So use just enough to add that hold.
- Application Technique:
- Rake: For even product distribution, rake the product through your hair with your fingers.
- Scrunch: Gently scrunch your hair from the ends upwards to encourage curl formation. Be careful not to disturb the curls too much, as this can cause frizz.
4. Plopping (Optional)
- If you want more defined curls and less frizz, you can “plop” your hair after applying your styling products.
- Use a microfiber towel or a cotton T-shirt and lay it on a flat surface. Flip your hair forward into the towel or T-shirt and wrap it gently around your head. Leave it for 10–20 minutes.
- This technique helps curls set in place while drying and reduces frizz.
5. Drying Your Hair
- Air Drying: Let your curls air dry for the best results. Air drying reduces frizz and prevents heat damage.
- Diffusing: If you need to dry your hair faster, use a diffuser attachment on your blow dryer. Set it to low heat and low speed, and gently cup your curls in the diffuser. Avoid disturbing the curls too much during this process.
6. Fluff and Separate (Optional)
- Once your hair is fully dry, you can fluff and separate your curls to add volume and body.
- Use an oil or serum to coat your fingers, then gently separate curls to reduce frizz.
- You can also use a hair pick at your roots to lift and add volume without disturbing the curl pattern.
7. Refresh Curls (Next Day)
I have a whole separate post for how I refresh curls here.
Conclusion + Extra tips
I also recommend trimming your hair at least once in 3 months, because if you don’t, the split ends will rise up and damage the rest of the hair.
Use rosemary oil/deep condition once a week.
Once a month or two, use a protein mask like this:
This is one of my favorite products that I only discovered because my hairstylist told me about it.
I even recommended it to my friend with wavy hair and she was shocked as to how soft her hair became after this.
Hair is made up of protein so protein masks are essential once in a while.
And that comes to the end of this very long post.
But by now, you’re an expert in caring for 3B curls.
Here are a few more posts you may like:
